Between 1939 and 1946, as a result of the Second World War, the entire mountain climb in the Himalayas was at a standstill.
After 1947, mountaineering activities in high mountainous areas of Asia resumed. From the year of 1947 to the 28th year of 1975, the athletes of various countries successfully achieved eleven times in their many climbs on Mount Everest. At the top of Mount Everest, a total of 51 men and women athletes from eight countries were left behind. Among them, China has 12 people and includes a female athlete. It is the country with the largest number of visitors ever to Mount Everest.
Now for half a century, the various countries have climbed Mount Everest briefly as follows:
1. In 1921, the British mountaineering team (Captain Hawadebari) climbed Mount Everest for the first time from within the territory of Tibet. They did not cross the top of the northern foothills. They claimed that the height of their arrival was 6,985 meters. Since they had no success, they declared This is a reconnaissance mountaineering activity.
2. In 1922, Britain’s second Mount Everest climbing team (captain Ji Bruce) still took the northern slope route in Tibet. They crossed the northern foothills but died at the height of 8,225 meters. People fail.
3. In 1924, Britain’s third Everest climbing team (captain F Norton) still climbed from China’s northern slope of the Mount Everest. When Norton and others arrived at 8,572m below the “second step†on the North Slope Due to lack of oxygen, he was forced to go down. Team members Mallory and Abin insisted on moving forward and never returned.
4. In 1933, the British mountaineering team consisted of 16 people (captain He Lutoletje) and still used the North Slope route in Tibet of China. However, it also failed. The team's team members, Win Harris and Weigel When they reached an altitude of 8,570 meters above sea level, they discovered the hail of Malorie, a member of the Everest Mountaineering team in England in 1924, and confirmed that Malorie and others died near this altitude.
5. In 1934, the Britishman M. Wilson used a light aircraft to climb alone. As a result, the plane was damaged near the Kobe Glacier. He was slightly injured. Later, he hired some local Sherba to assist the mountaineering, but in a storm. Afterwards, he was frozen to death on the East Russian glaciers.
6. In 1935, the British Mount Everest climbing team consisted of seven people (Captain I. Shipton). It only detected the elevation of 75,000 meters above the north slope of Mount Qomolangma in Tibet.
7. In 1936, the British Mount Everest climbing team consisted of ten people (captain He Lutoletje) and arrived at the top of the north pole at an altitude of 7,007 meters and returned [Note: The past at the top of Beibei used 7,007 meters. In 1975, the actual altitude of the Chinese mountaineering team was calculated to be 7,050 meters.
8. In 1938, the British Mount Everest climbing team consisted of seven people (Captain Ge. Dillman), still climbing from the north slope of China's territory, and after reaching an altitude of 8,290 meters above sea level, it declared failure.
9. In 1947, after the Second World War, it was the first time that Everest climbed Everest. The Canadian, Le Demanman, hired some local mountain dwellers as porters, and still walked on the northern slope of China. It did not exceed 6,400 m. The height of rice eventually returned to failure.
The above nine climbs of Everest have been carried out in Tibet in the territory of China and have not been successful.
After 1950, I was liberated in Tibet. I am located in Tibet, a southwestern border defense area. I no longer allow foreign mountaineering teams to carry out mountain climbing activities. Since then, the foreign mountaineering team has been climbing Everest from the southern slope in Nepal.
In 1950, a climbing team composed of American K. Huston and others from the southern slope of Nepal made a test for Mount Everest for the first time, only reaching the vicinity of the ice blasting area at 6,100 meters above the Gongbu Glacier. , it will return.
11. In 1950, the British mountaineering team consisted of five people (Captain Ge. Dillman). It was claimed in advance that it was a reconnaissance team that climbed Everest from the southern slope. After reaching the height of 5,480 meters above the Koubei glacier, it reached an altitude of 5,480 meters. return.
12. In 1951, the British mountaineering team was captained by Yi Shipton. There were seven people in the team and only climbed a section of the Kobe Glacier and arrived at an altitude of 6,450 meters.
13. In 1951, a Danish man named K. Bega Larson illegally crossed the border into Tibet. It is planned to climb Mount Everest from the north slope, but he failed to cross the altitude of 6,500 meters without crossing.
14. In May 1952, the ten-man Swiss climbing team led by captain Le Ditmar climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. Team member L. Ranbir and their porter Nepalese Fujisin reached altitude. After reaching a height of 8,540 meters, it failed because of the deterioration of the weather, but they created a route from the southern slope of Mount Everest to the summit.
15. In October 1952, the Swiss mountaineering team led by Gesheevalle climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope for the first time in autumn, after the rainy season in the Himalayas. Team member Le Lambier took part in the spring of the same year in Switzerland. By. Members of the team, En Gillianfurt, and Nepalese-employed Nepalese Fujisin reached an altitude of 8,100 meters above sea level, again failing due to the deterioration of the weather.
16. In 1953, the British mountaineering team under the leadership of team leader Johann Hutter (composed of ten people), two players ascended the summit of Mount Everest. The top players were Yi Hilary (New Zealander) and Fujishiro Norghi (that is, the Nepalese who climbed eight kilometers with the Swiss climbers in the spring and autumn of 1952). Team Evans and Bourgeone reached a height of 8,720 meters. The height of Mount Everest used by the British is 8,840 meters.
17. In 1956, the Swiss Mountaineering Team (captain Arbel Eger) was composed of five members, E. Schmidt, U. Marmet, A. Leus, G. Gonzin, in Nepal. Under the support of the porters and guides, on May 23, two groups of people joined the Mount Everest. The route they used was the one that was passed by Swiss athletes in 1952 and later passed the British team's first pass. From the Kongpo Glacier on the southern slope of Mount Qomolangma, it reached the foothills (commonly known as Nanxun) between Mt. Everest and its sister peak, Luoze Peak (8,501m above sea level), and then reached the summit along the southeastern ridge. The elevation of Everest used is 8,848 meters.
18. In the early morning of May 25, 1960, China’s Everest Mountaineering Team (Commander Han Fudong, Captain Shi Zhanchun), led by assault leader Wang Fuzhou, climbed the world's highest peak from China’s mainland within the North Slope for the first time. The three players are Wang Fuzhou, Gongbu (Tibetan) and Qu Yinhua. In the anti-China clamor at the time of the International Anti-imperialism, when China’s mountaineers from both China and the Soviet Union climbed the Everest unilaterally after three years of natural disasters and despotic perfidy, the Chinese mountaineers successfully succeeded for the first time from the North Slope. The victory in Mount Everest fully demonstrated that the Chinese people are under the leadership of the Communist Party of China and Chairman Mao. They are invincible, invincible and insatiable in their revolutionary heroism.
In this mountaineering battle, a total of 29 Chinese mountain climbers reached the height of 8,100 meters above Mount Everest. In addition to the top players, there were 13 members who climbed to an altitude of 8,500 meters. This is the first time in the world history of mountaineering.
19. In May 1960, when the Chinese mountaineering team was raiding the Everest from the northern slope, an Indian mountaineering team led by Indian Army Major Kat Singh was climbing Everest from the southern slope of Mount Everest. When they arrived at an altitude of 8,625 meters above sea level on the southern slope, they announced that they had given up because of the wind's inability to move forward. 20. In 1962, the second Mount Everest climber in India, under the leadership of the captain of the Indian Army Lieutenant Colonel De Diese, once again climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal, again because of fear of strong winds. Two of the team members climbed to an altitude of 8,717 meters.
21. In 1963, the United States Everest Mountaineering Team (Captain En Dinlinfas) took a route from the southern slope of Mount Everest in Nepal to the summit of the southwestern ridge. The US team made two surprise attacks one after another on the 21st. The first time on May 1st, two people climbed to the top. On the second time, they boarded four people on May 22 and twice went up to six people. Mount Everest's fourth mountaineering team.
22. In 1965, the Indian mountaineering team (captain of the Indian Navy Major Mu Kwok) had four echelon groups on the May 20th, 22nd, 24th and 29th. At the top of the mountain peak, nine people went up four times. The leader and deputy team leader and team members of the mountaineering team were all selected from active military servicemen in India. The route used was the old route used by the British and Swiss teams.
23. In the spring of 1969, the Japanese mountaineering team carried out the first exploratory mountaineering from the southern slope of Mount Everest. After reaching the Konbu glacier area at 6,450 meters above sea level, some glaciers and meteorological observing personnel were left behind. They stayed in the Everest Mountain. Stayed for one year and made observations on weather and glaciers for a long time, laying the necessary foundation for the Japanese team to formally climb Mount Everest in 1970.
24. In the fall of 1969, the Japan Everest Mountaineering Team (Captain Fujita Keimon) attempted to win the Mount Everest from the southern slope on the basis of the spring reconnaissance and reconnaissance in the spring. However, after reaching an altitude of eight kilometers, they announced that they would Completed the autumn mountaineering reconnaissance mission and returned.
25. In the spring of 1970, the Japanese Mount Everest climber was led by his 70-year-old captain Matsuba Saburo (who was a Japanese mountaineer. Although he participated in this mountaineering, he spent all his time in mountaineering activities at the base camp. No one participated in the adaptive march and did not participate in the summit activities. His participation shows that the Japanese mountaineering community attaches great importance to this activity. The two groups perform assaults on Everest:
A group of very steep rock walls (also called rock walls) up to 800 meters from the south of Mount Everest lined the peaks of Mount Everest. This is a more difficult route for the Japanese to choose because of the altitude of eight. More than a kilometer of the courage to carry out "technical climbing", that is climbing a steep cliff, this is the past other countries have not engaged in the mountaineering team.
The other group is still the traditional old route of choice, that is, the route from the south slope to the southeastern ridge through the south.
The reason why the Japanese team divided their forces into two routes and dared to challenge the front rock face of the southern slope of Mount Everest was inseparable from the world's climbing trends at that time. Because climbing from the southern slope along the traditional route and taking the path that others walk through, it has little meaning for the mountain climbing that is rapidly developing. The Japanese team’s south hillside frontage route, which had risen by about 150 meters (calculated on the basis of the vertical height of the slope) as planned, had failed and had to rely fully on the traditional route of the second group. On May 11th and 12th, 1970, the team successively took the top four teams from the two ladder groups and made a successful trip from the traditional route. The top players were Matsuura Aofu, Uemura Nagai, Hirabayashi Kemin, and Nepalese porter Chota. in.
26. In the spring of 1971, the “International Everest Mountaineering Team†composed of European mountaineers from 11 countries, including Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and India, was captain and Swiss mountaineer En. Kirinfurt. Under the leadership of the southwest ridge along the southern slope of Mount Everest route (by: basically the United States in 1963 the route of the mountaineering team). Due to the inconsistency of the initial pace, the internal disagreements were very large. After the Indian team member Huguna died in an avalanche, he failed.
27. In the spring of 1972, the “Everest Everest Mountaineering Team†consisting of eight mountaineers from eight European countries (British, French, Italian, Austrian, West German, Swiss, etc.) led by Sidek Khalifafel. The summit of the southern slope along the traditional route reached a height of 8,200 meters above sea level and declared failure.
28. In the fall of 1972 (September-November), the British military mountaineering team (captain Bonnington) climbed Everest along the traditional route of the southern slope. After the establishment of an assault camp of 8,230 meters above sea level, it was forced to suffer from the deterioration of the climate. Failed to declare.
29. In the spring of 1973 (February to May), the Italian military mountaineering team led by the head of the Italian military mountaineering school, Quito Monzino, formed a team including Italian land, sea, air force, police forces, customs officers, and medical services. The large-scale Mount Everest climbing team of meteorological and other military scientific personnel was on May 5 and May 7 of that year. Each time there was a group of four people, a total of eight climbed to the summit of Mount Everest. There are about 60 Italian soldiers in the team and it is the highest number of climbers in Nepal to date. They employed more than 300 Nepali porters and guides and mobilized various transportation vehicles, including modern mountain transportation vehicles such as military helicopters and hill tractors.
The route for the summit of the Italian military mountaineering team was originally two schemes. One was the summit along the southwestern ridge (formerly used by the US team in 1963), and the other was the alternative plan, that is, along the relatively traditional route of the southeastern ridge. top. As a result, the first plan was blocked, and at the end of the day alternative plans were used to reach the top.
30. In the fall of 1973, the Japanese Mount Everest climbing team (captain Masano Mizuno) entered the Mount Everest in August of that year and was originally attempting to climb from the south of the Everest route of the Japanese team's unsuccessful success in 1970. It had previously sought ways to improve the equipment. For example, it is suitable for oxygen equipment with an altitude of more than eight kilometers above sea level, but it still fails to cross the big rock wall that is more than eight kilometers above sea level. As a result, it was forced to use an alternative plan to climb along the southeast ridge through the traditional route of Nanxun. Two members, Shiheijiu and Kato Bamo, boarded the summit of Mount Everest on October 26th. This is the first time in the history of Mount Everest that it has been successful in the fall.
31. In the spring of 1974, the Spanish Mount Everest climbing team (captain Lorente Sugaza, physiologist) consisted of 16 people and used the traditional route of the southern slope. On May 19, the commandos reached the 6th camp (8). At 600 meters, the strong winds prevented them from advancing and declared failure. At that time, it was only 350 meters from the summit of Mount Everest.
32. In the autumn of 1974, the French Everest climbing team, captain of the famous Mayor of the Chamonix city (small mountain town in the Alps), Champagne, consisted of ten Frenchmen. 390 Nepalese porters and guides selected the 1963 American climbers to climb the route along the southwestern ridge. One of the main purposes of this mountaineering was to test the physiological changes of the human body at high altitude. They created a remote electrocardiogram device for each of the top players and prepared a systematic observation of all the electrocardiograms of athletes from the mountain down to the summit. However, on the night of September 19, a large avalanche occurred at an altitude of 6,400 to 6,900 meters, causing the captain and five Nepalese porters to die. The team’s mountaineering activities thus failed.
33. In the spring of 1975, a Japanese woman of 15 women, the Everest Mountaineering Team (captain Eiji Hisako), was accompanied by a Japanese male reporter and was at an altitude of 5,350 meters on the southern slope of Mount Everest on March 16th. The height of the establishment of the base camp. The deputy captain, Takumi Nobuko (36 years old), together with Nepali guide An Zelin (27 years old) at noon local time on May 16, 1975, boarded the summit of the Mount Everest along the southern slopes for 25 minutes. .
The Japanese women's team encountered more difficulties in climbing. They set off from Japan to the base camp in Yamashita and lost a great deal of equipment and food. On the night of May 3~4, a sudden avalanche took place at the camp of 6,450 meters above sea level. There were seven women players and 23 players. Nepal’s guides suffered an avalanche and the entire 6,45-m camp was completely swallowed by avalanches. The situation was very dangerous, but after being rescued in a timely manner, all the distressed persons escaped, and Tabuchi was also one of the members buried by the avalanche. After the summit, he said, "The mountaineering activity will not be done again!"
34. In 1975, the Chinese Mount Everest Mountaineering Team (Party Committee Secretary Wang Fuzhou and Captain Shi Zhanchun) consisted of seven siblings from Han, Tibet, Hui, Mongolia, North Korea, Tu, and Ewenki, with a total of 434 people, including 179 athletes. , including 36 female athletes, the remaining 255 people have scientific research, meteorology, communications, news, medical services, transportation, accidents and other logistics personnel, most of the members from the workers and peasants.
The team entered the mountain from early March and dismissed it at the beginning of June. After many marches (appropriate marches three times before, and assault peaks two times later), at 2:30 pm Beijing time on May 27, 1975, female players Pan Duo and eight male players, Somnan Rob and Luo Ze. Hou Shengfu, Sang Zhu, Dapingcuo, Gongga Basang, Cirenduoji, and Abuqin, following the 1960 Chinese climbing team Wang Fuzhou, Gongbu, Qu Yinhua first boarded the Everest from the north slope, and once again boarded the north slope. The highest point of this earth. The large number of collective climbs and the great achievements of the scientific expedition are unprecedented in the history of world mountaineering.
35. At 6 p.m. Nepal time on September 24, 1975, two members of the British mountaineering team, Heston (32) and Scott (33), climbed Everest from the southern slope of Mount Everest. .
The British team's route was determined during the Japanese team's investigation in 1969, but in 1970 and 1973 the Japanese team climbed twice along this line, both between 8500 and 8150 meters south of Mount Everest. The steep rock face on the slope failed, and later the International Mountaineering Team, the European Selection Team and the British team all climbed along this line to Everest. This is the fourth route that has been successful to date and the shortest of the four routes. It is characterized by a long rocky cliff with an average slope of 75 degrees above eight kilometers above sea level. The British used special oxygen equipment and conducted special mountain climbing training to achieve success.
According to foreign news, the British team climbed Mount Everest. From the establishment of the base camp to the success of the summit, they had shared a total of thirty-three days. This is the team with the shortest time among the 11 events that have taken place in Everest in 22 years. It is relatively smooth in organizing transportation and grasping the timing of the weather. The British team consists of 18 athletes and the captain is Bonington. In the peak of the assault, team member Zhu Burke died. According to the British team’s announcement, the climb will cost 250,000 U.S. dollars.
In the spring and autumn of 1975, the three climbers climbed Everest from three different routes. This was not what the Everest climbed past.
In more than half a century since 1921, even though Mount Everest has been listed by athletes of all nations eleven times, it is still important for scientists in China and around the world to further unravel the mystery of this young mountain. The project has a close relationship with scientific investigation and research on the Everest region, and with the world economy, energy, aviation, space flight, and military affairs.
With the continuous development of science and technology, as the world's alpine climbing techniques and technical equipment continue to improve and improve, athletes from all countries will likely climb Everest and other elevations of more than eight kilometers above other new and more difficult routes from Everest. peak. Choosing a new route and overcoming new difficulties The climb to an altitude of more than eight kilometers above sea level has become a major trend in the world's alpine mountaineering.
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